Help with alpha channels!

[jonbalza]

Hi, I was reading this great book, "New Masters of Photoshop", and I came across Colin Smith's chapter on Photorealism. Anyways, I was inspired, and decided to try something on my own. Here is what I have so far:

http://jonbalza.dynamicis.com/fossil.jpg

I think I am doing pretty well, but I am having problems with the dial that sets the watch. Here is a scan of my dial on my watch:

http://jonbalza.dynamicis.com/scan_fossil.jpg

Any suggestion on making it? For most of the watch, I have been using alpha channels to create texture maps, and then lighting effects. Any thoughts, on creating the dial, or the watch as a whole?

Thanks in advance,
Jon

[markzebra]

Hmmm yes - not an easy one.

To use lighting effects you would have to create a very complex texture channel which fully models the surface - not an easy task but not impossible. Even then you might not get exactly the effect you are looking for.

Possibly the quickest solution is to try "painting" it using the gradient tool. If you use foreground to transparent gradients on multiple layers you will be surprised at the quality you can achieve in this way. You can mask these gradients either by making accurate selections to begin with, using layer masks or even vector layer clipping paths.

I know this sounds complicated but if you keep the layers seperate to begin with (group them in a set) you will be able to edit the reflections quite easily until you are happy. Then just highlight the layer set icon and hit control E.

[Greg Vander Houwen]

jon,

Welcome, That is some sweet work. I am going to copy this thread to the Light Table as well.

As to doing the winding knob. I agree with markzebra. I would build this using layers with vector and layer masks (you can have both on the same layer) where the vector masks handle the individual shapes and the layer masks handle the fades and the softening of edges. I'd build it from the bottom up, ie. the gradients and highlights of the cylindrical knob then add the dark "teeth" base shapes and then the highlight teeth shapes on top. With all I'd start with gradients and build up the structure so it looks stark, 3d, then I'd come back with a brush and add detail and soften the transitions.

Again sweet work. Thanks for showing it to us.

Greg

[Greg Gerla]

This is a cool looking shot! I have a non-technical question: How many hours have you spent working on this? I am just a beginner in the PhotoShop realm.
It would seem to me that something like this would take WEEKS!!
Another question for the Commercial Shooters: Are you finding yourself enhancing most of your commercial work for clients? Are you billing for the hours you spend with PhotoShop in addition to the cost of shooting?
Just curious....
Greg

[jonbalza]

I don't have an exact record, and I haven't worked on that piece for almost a week now, because it is a personal piece. I would have to say that I probably worked on this for about 6-7 hours. I still am working on the dial, but haven't gotten to it yet.

The three main keys to working fast with Photoshop are:
1. Experience with the program
2. Shortcut keys
3. Photoshop Actions

I have spent alot of time learning what the shortcuts are for many of the common functions I use in Photoshop, as well as Creating actions for commonly used effects. I also play around with Photoshop alot, especially since I am still a student. Just through the experience, you learn how to achieve what you want in less time.

Whenever I bill my clients, (Keep in mind most of my work right now is for the web.) I bill by the hour for the work I do. Not alot of photography is involved for me, but it is something I am learning more about.

[mark ward]

OMG. There is no way I could ever do that. That is so realistic

BTW

(Is it true they use PS in the post production of Star Wars?)


mark w

[jonbalza]

Thank you for your kind words, Mark. It is very much appreciated. I did end up coming closer to finishing the dial, and it is attached to this post. I couldn't remember the exact base color i used, so the color seems to be alittle bit off. I hope that I will get it closer eventually.

[Greg Vander Houwen]

jonbalza

That is a beautiful piece. I'm glad to see your talents added to the mix up here.

The winding knob turned out nicely. Looks like you got that figured out.

One suggestion for added realism. The only thing I would touch on it is the drop shadow. IMHO, it's too close to the source (the watch) an a little too light for the intensity of the source.

This may sound a bit analog but I do this all the time. Take a flashlight and lay it on a table above the watch then examine the shadow it throws. My guess is that you are going to see more vertical distance on the shadow as well as more density and maybe less blur.

Giving the shadow some more distance will make it "stand" a little higher and add overall depth to the image.

Also if you bend the shadow using something like Filter, Distort, Sphereize, to shift the dial shadow area down more than the band's shadow, it will make the dial look thicker as the shadow ramps up (in distance) toward it and back down from it.

Thanks again for showing it to us. Inspirational...

Greg